Undereye Concerns

Top concerns for the eye area are the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. These are two different culprits but can occur together. Dark circles can appear for several reasons, mainly hyperpigmentation, vascularity, and shadowing. Dark circles are often genetically inherited in darker skin types. As with their areas of pigmentation, the eyes can get darker with inflammation including sun exposure and frequent rubbing of the eyes, often seen in those with allergies. There is no real treatment for inherited dark circles, although some improvement can be seen with skin lightening products, chemical exfoliation, and laser treatments, similar to that seen with other pigment issues.

Another cause for dark circles is collections of blood beneath the delicate skin of the eye. This can be caused by genetics or triggered by allergies and is correlated to the leakage of blood from small capillaries. The pooled blood is more noticeable around the eyes due to the thinner skin; furthermore, as skin ages it loses fat that may have once concealed the vessels. An underlying cause of both bags and dark circles under the eyes during allergy season is a histamine response. When edema sets in, the pressure can cause capillaries to enlarge and/or burst, which is why on a day with a high allergen count, a person may look like they have not slept. If allergens are the suspected culprit, an antihistamine may be beneficial.

One, not so obvious, cause of dark circles, is shadowing that can occur from hollowing around the eyes. A major contributing factor to aged skin is the loss of subcutaneous fat, which is even more apparent in the eye area. Medical providers can reduce this shadowing with the use of soft tissue fillers; this technique requires much skill and is typically done by an injection specialist. Fillers often last at least nine months, making them a good option for those who are not ready for a surgical procedure. If a client is not ready for any medical procedure, the use of camouflage makeup seems to be the next best thing.
Highlighting the shadowed areas and contouring the area around the hollow can make a big difference.

Moderate to severe puffiness or bags under the eyes are most commonly caused by excess fat. For this reason, the eyes should be analyzed thoroughly, instead of giving false hope that a topical treatment or simply getting a good night’s sleep may work. It is unfortunate that some cosmetic retailers and skin care providers inadvertently sell eye creams promising to reduce the pockets surrounding the eyes without considering the condition’s cause. When a collection of fat is the cause, surgery is the only option for resolution. Mild puffiness can be caused by allergies, lack of sleep, or water retention; these conditions can be improved with the use of topical products. Regardless of the severity, swelling under
the eyes should be examined by a clinical provider before product or treatment regimens are suggested.

To improve the overall appearance of the eyes, it is beneficial to keep the skin in the area in its most healthy state. Products containing vitamins A, C, E, and peptides should be used to improve the overall appearance of the eye area. Vitamin A is known as a skin normalizer as it normalizes all its healthy functions. Vitamin A thickens the skin and reduces the over-production of pigment. Vitamin C is essential for collagen production and has skin brightening properties. Vitamin E is a powerful antioxidant that also boosts the effects of vitamin C. There are several peptides available that carry out various functions. Signal peptides that trigger the effects of collagen production are most used. Products for the eye area should also have a hydrating base to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Dark circles and puffy eyes are two conditions that are difficult to manage, but with the right advice and proper product usage under eye concerns can be improved.